October 11, 2004
Great Kills Harbor, Staten Island, NY
Whew. It has been a busy two weeks. Lots of things have happened; lots of stories to tell. Currently, we are sitting in Great Kills Harbor on Staten Island, preparing for the New Jersey stretch to Cape May, NJ, including the run up the Delaware Bay to the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. From there, we plan to enter the Chesapeake and spend the rest of hurricane season (ending around Halloween) exploring the bay.
Guard Gate #2 – Waterford “Flight of Five”
We finished our trip through the Erie Canal a week ago Friday (09/30). The area “attraction” at the end of the canal is the Waterford “Flight of Five” at the eastern terminus. The “Flight” is the greatest drop in elevation of any lock system in the world. Using a set of five continuous locks, we dropped 169 feet in elevation (roughly 33.5 ft./lock) to the Hudson River at Waterford, NY. The canal trip was over. We were sad. The final run from Lock #7 and down through the “Flight” only took a little over three hours. It was over so fast. At Lock #2, we entered the Hudson River, having completed the whole 338 mile run on the Erie Canal, from Buffalo to Albany. It was a fantastic trip.
View of Lock “6” from Inside the Doors of Lock “5”
We tied to the wall at Waterford to take in some of the local excitement. As it turns out, Waterford is a great cross road for cruisers. It is the confluence of the Erie Canal, Champlain Canal, and the Hudson River. Most of the cruising guide books for this part of the country either start or end here at these docks. Its importance showed. Most who cruise from/to southern waters call on Waterford. There were boats from all over the place: a Swiss boat, a few Canadians, one from the Pacific Northwest, a few from the Great Lakes, and some from Florida. Most were headed south, just like us.
Locking Down
For such a boater “mecca,” I was given the impression Waterford wasn’t happy we were there. I’m not sure of the reason. Their town dock was new and very nice, but the volunteers who staffed it didn’t care about us or our needs. I was under the impression we were to love the Hudson River, but for now, all I wanted to do was turn around, go back up the “Flight,” and return to the Canal. I can’t quite put my finger on it, but Waterford seems to struggle with it’s place in the state: not quite rural and not the City either. The whole place has an “urban-rural” feel. For such a small town, all the buildings are crammed together in an inner-city manner. Yet, you walk a few blocks and you out in the country. Most of the stores are empty, industry having left the area a long time ago, taking the economy with it. What is left is an old, ill-maintained infrastructure.
Last Lock, Lock #2, Waterford, NY
Many cruisers seemed to stay around Waterford. We didn’t. We spent two nights, provisioning in between, and promptly left on Sunday (10/3) morning, attempting to catch the ocean tides that affect the Hudson all the way to Troy, NY. We needed to step the mast to make our boat whole again. After Albany, we could step it anywhere, as there are no more overhead issues on the river south toward the ocean. We planned on stepping it ourselves, but since it would be our first time, we wanted facilities nearby just in case we got it wrong. It seems every one traveling these water goes to Catskill, NY and Hop-O-Nose Marine. Since every one goes there, it must be good, right? With that reasoning, that’s where we went.
I’m not sure why every one goes there. Having been there, I wouldn’t go again. Their prices where too high for their level of service. However, it isn’t really an issue for us, as we were able to successfully step our mast without many problems. We did have quite a crowd onlookers, though. Most people watched in awe (or in shock) as our mast went up in the air with out a hitch. With this event, I’ve decided we’re famous. Here’s why: the Hop-O-Nose marina owner came down Monday morning to personally “see the boat people who put up their own mast.” He’d actually heard about us from our friends Tom and Mim aboard Runaway, who had Hop-O-Nose put their mast up earlier in the week. Even though the owner wasn’t there to see us put our mast up, he had to stop by to check out the result. Of course, he said the same thing every one else does: “How’d you sail that boat here from Las Vegas?” Which brings to mind the fact that everyone in the region is aware of us, reinforcing our famous (or infamous) status. Everyone has heard about the “boat from Vegas.” We had off duty lock masters on the canal show up just to see if the “boat from Vegas” was real. To help reinforce our star status, we’re contemplating changing the name to something more “Vegasy” like Lucky or Jackpot, putting a giant Elvis doll up on the bowsprit while continually playing “Viva Las Vegas” at ear-piercing levels, and running automotive neon all around the boat for an added flashy Vegas effect. Put a feathered head dress on Vanessa and a cheap leisure suite on me, and we’d really complete the picture! Vegas afloat!
Bob, Charis, Heidi, and Cameron, Our Friends Aboard a Frers 50, Flying Cloud
We had an interesting night in Catskill on Monday. We didn’t want to pay the high price to spend another night at Hop-O-Nose, so we pulled off the marina and out into Catskill Creek to wait for our friends aboard Flying Cloud, who were finishing up with their mast. Once finished, they pulled out and rafted up to us, so we could all have dinner together. Then, two other boats we’d met in Waterford pulled in and anchored behind us. Everything was fine, until … Just as we were sitting down to a nice plate of steak in wine sauce over rice, the wind picked up and our bow anchor started to drag. We all jumped up and went into action. I screamed at the other boats that we were dragging. Bob and Heidi jumped back aboard Flying Cloud and cleared the dock lines to moved off out of the way. Boats cleared out of the anchorage faster than I could have ever imagined. In minutes, all three other boats were out of sight, around the bend of the narrow Catskill Creek. Every one was gone, except us. We managed to catch our stern anchor on something solid and weren’t going anywhere. It took an hour to clear. It probably would have taken less time, but we still had Charis and Cameron (Bob and Heidi’s kids) aboard. Add Binga and the fact that all three kids were alone, unsupervised down below added to the situation. Everything went well until Binga punched Cameron in the head. Already stressed to her maximum levels because of the anchor issue, Vanessa ventured below to investigate the screaming. She must not have liked what she saw. What I heard next is indescribable. Loud voices, similar to those uttered by a possessed Linda Blair in the Exorcist, came out of the cabin. I heard screams and cries. I heard crashes and smacks. This went on for a few minutes. Then, this horrific black demon levitated from the cabin up onto the deck and morphed back into my wife. Calmer now, we both took deep breaths and returned our attention to the anchor. I promptly did what it took to free it, as I didn’t want to experience the wrath of the demon myself. Later, when I went below, I found the cabin in shambles, Binga was whimpering in the v-berth and Charis and Cameron huddled in a corner of the galley, holding on to each other tightly, scared to death. Needless to say, by the time all had settled and all parties were safely back in order, our dinner was cold, probably from the cold wrath of Mom that blew threw just minutes before.
We weren’t the only ones dragging and all four boat decided to forget the anchorage and rafted, or tie together, along an Army Corp of Engineer’s barge down stream, near the Hudson. We all spent a sleepless night, arising early to separate and begin our individual journeys. Flying Cloud and Nereus traveled together all the way down the Hudson. We weren’t as impressed with it as we’d expected. As stated previously, everyone told us we would love the Hudson. We found most of it old and industrial. The mountains were unimpressive. Then, we reached Kingston, where we entered the neighborhood of the Vanderbilt’s, the Roosevelt’s, and others with too much money and grand estates. Things on the river were looking better. We spent the night anchored near the I-84 bridge in Newburgh. The next morning, the Hudson improved even more. We flowed into beautiful mountains and motored past West Point. Further down stream, the river opens up and lazily meanders south. It was a nice trip, until . . .
Flying Cloud needed parts from the store at Haverstraw Marine in Haverstraw, NY, so we decided to pull in there. As it turned out, we needed to stop more than they did. I’ve written before about being our own municipality. We have to generate all our power, keep water on board, and deal with our waste – both garbage and human. In this instance, we were almost up to our knees in excrement of the human kind. I don’t know what the galley was making that caused all the human bowels aboard to increase output, but our holding tank filled up faster than normal. How do we know when it is full? Well, let me tell you: the toilet backs up – and it ain’t pretty. We’ve also discovered just because the holding tank is full, pooh production doesn’t stop. As a matter of fact, when you have to go, but can’t, it just makes you have to go even more. After a while, you find yourself running around on deck just trying to stay ahead of the pooh production, maximum pucker factor, but you can never get away from it, no matter how hard you try. The odor from the head doesn’t help the situation at all.
The point of all this “shit” is to point out the greatest devise ever offered to the cruising world, after on-board refrigeration, is the marine pump-out. In areas of “No Discharge Zones” – which is everywhere we’ve been so far – area marinas are required by law to provide this service to boaters. Luckily they are almost everywhere. The marine pump-out is a giant vacuum that is designed to remove waste from a boat’s holding tank. And we needed one – now! As it turned out, there was a working pump-out at our destination in Haverstraw Marina. We pulled up, fast, almost crashing into the dock. We couldn’t wait. We needed to expel some waist before we sank.
Honestly, this pump-out was the nicest, fastest, and best pump-out I have ever used in my entire life. Considering the fact we were full to overflowing, any pump-out would had an aura surrounding it with angels singing in the background when we pulled up. But this pump-out was special. Magnificent. Stupendous, even! As the toilet was about to overflow, we attached the hose and hit the “On” button. Woah! In exactly 22 seconds, the entire twenty gallon contents of our holding tank was GONE! I was so excited, I made every one around go below and use our head, just so I could pump out again. I went twice, even though I didn’t even need to anymore. That thing pumped so hard and so fast, it sucked our tank and our toilet completely dry! Nice! The dock-master had to come out and fight me off as I was trying to pull the pump-out off the dock and mount it on my deck to take it with me! I’ve just never used such a nice poo-guzzler!
We departed Haverstraw (leaving the pump-out behind) and continued south, our final destination for the day: New York City. We made it as far as the George Washington Bridge, where we dropped the hook and rafted up with Flying Cloud so we could all have dinner together again and recount the magnificence of the Haverstraw pump-out – you know, the usual cruiser dinner conversation (“Man, that pump-out was great. More Gravy? No thanks, but please pass the corn”). We spent the night anchored in the Hudson across from the Harlem River entrance with the New York City skyline as our backdrop.
 The Madness . . . |
 of the Media Blitz |
 of Time Square, NYC |
Steve, Binga, and Vanessa in front of the Brooklyn Bridge
Mid-Town Manhattan
New York City. The Big Apple. Wow! The next morning, we motored down to the 79th Street Boat Basin, our gateway to NYC – and at $30 a night, it has got to be the cheapest place to stay in the whole city, BYOB (bring your own boat). Up until now, we’ve stayed in places that were calm, quiet, and nice. The most “civilization” we’ve seen after Chicago was in Port Huron – and we thought that was culture shock. From where we are coming from, we were completely unprepared for the big “hello” New York would give us. We tied to our mooring and went ashore to see what was there. 79th Street Basin is two blocks from Broadway. We took a stroll down Broadway, past Central Park and the Lincoln Center, right into Times Square. Whoa! Las Vegas is wild with all it’s lights, but it is nothing compared to the media blitz of this area of New York. Add in Rockefeller Center and Radio City Music Hall and our brains instantly fried. We returned to the boat feeling like zombies.
Ground Zero
And the food! Our holding tank better watch out, because the eating in the Big Apple is awesome. You can get what every you want, and most of it is excellent. We didn’t have a bad meal the entire time we were there. One night, a Westsail friend, Mike, met us and took us out to dinner. It was great. It is certainly good to know people in great places. We’d of never known to go that restaurant ourselves. Plus, knowing we are on a cruising budget, Mike treated us! Thanks Mike!
We spent our time trying to quickly “see” New York – as if you could ever see it all. We went to Ground Zero, Fulton Street, the Seaport, the subway system, Grand Central Station, whew, we’re tired already. Saturday, we went to the zoo, the Museum of Natural History, Central Park, and more food!
Madness in New York Harbor
Already, and much too soon, it was time to begin preparations for our journey south. Unfortunately, we had to say good bye to our friends aboard Flying Cloud, as we were heading south, and they were heading out to Long Island. On our way out, we stopped and spent Sunday afternoon with Mike, our Westsail friend, at Liberty Landing Marina and toured each others boats. Mike, who has been following this site, felt sorry for our budget beer status and generously stocked us up with some nice Bass Ale for our trip (which we are treating like gold aboard). Thanks again Mike! And thanks for hosting us in the City and giving us advise on getting around.
Later in the afternoon, as a weather front was coming through, we cast off from Liberty Landing and headed south to Great Kills Harbor on Staten Island, from where we plan venture out into the Atlantic. What insanity! The Upper New York Harbor was utter chaos! I counted no less than 13 freighter/barges, half a dozen ferries, a Cruise Ship, and more recreational power and sail boats than you could count. Add in a windy cold front blowing 15-20 knots and it was a near disaster.
Lady Liberty Waving “Good Bye”
But onward we went, carefully. We sailed past Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty, something we’d always dreamed of. It was a moment to cherish. We sailed on south, through a fleet of waiting freighters, and right out under the Verrazano Bridge. From there, we could see across Lower New York Harbor and right out into the Atlantic. We turned right and sailed, in super brisk winds, setting a personal speed record – eight knots! – the fastest we’ve ever sailed! We screamed over to Great Kills Harbor and dropped the anchor. Tomorrow, we’ll head on south, bidding New York one final Good Bye. It was great. We’ll miss it. But, there’ll be something else around the next cape to attract our attention. We’ll just have to wait and see what it is.
At least, in the ocean, we can pump over, with out needing a pump-out.
Until next time, all is well on board. Thanks to New York and the Erie Canal, we’re still loving it – now more than ever.
– Steve