Monday, August 30, 2004
Roger’s City, MI
Nereus at anchor
We’ve had a couple of ideally ideal days here at the island. It sure is great to feel like cruisers again and having the opportunity to do cruiser things. We just wish the weather were better. Can’t complain though, we could still be sitting with out an engine, which reminds me how appreciative we are of the folks back at Northport Bay Boat Yard. They are an incredibly nice bunch of people; and very understanding and accommodating. We were stuck with them for six weeks, going out of our minds, and they offered us nothing but support and kindness. We owe them our deepest thanks. If any of you are in the area and need a knowledgeable and professional yard, Northport Bay Boat Yard is your place.
Ferries Racing out of the Harbor
So, here we sit in the anchorage at Mackinac Island. Well, actually, we are at anchor, everyone else is either in the marina or on a mooring. We are now budget cruisers, completely self-sufficient, and don’t need such niceties as a marina. One other boat was anchored here, but left. Now it is just us. After two days nights here, we know why. The picture to the right show Nereus at anchor, center, while three different island ferry lines continually race multiple boats in and out of the harbor, making for a rolley anchorage. Add in the bow wave from the occasional freighter coming down from Lake Superior, and we can rock and roll from 08:00 to 22:00. It gets pretty bad in the afternoon and evening when traffic is at its tourist peek.
Nereus Dwarfed by a Passing Freighter
But, we can’t complain. We wake every morning to the sound of a bugler’s Revelry and a cannon shot from Fort Mackinac. We turn in every night to the same bugler’s Taps.
Fort Mackinac watches over the harbor
The history here is incredible. Forget that this place is loaded with tourists, or that the movie Somewhere in Time with Jane Semour and Christopher Reeves was filmed here, or that week-enders continually run around buy up all the fudge, saltwater taffy, and t-shirts they can, this place has a tremendous history and is worthy of high praise from skeptical cruisers like us. Granted, we’ve been here before, but this time, we were able to take a closer look and see more of the island and what it has to offer. We like what we’ve found.
British Landing overlooking the Straits and the Bridge
This island dates back to the Revolutionary era. The British that established the garrison here in 1779. After the Revolutionary War, the island and fortress became part of the U.S. territories. However, this would not be the end of conflict on the island. On July 16, 1812, the British landed on the western end of the island and attacked the fort. The American’s, unaware the war had begun, were forced to surrender with out a fight. Two years later, the American’s failed to retake the island and fort. We visited the battle grounds in the center of the island. True to form of modern day development, it is now a golf course, with a memorial placard.
The Grand Hotel
So there’s a history here, big deal, you say? What makes this island special, you ask? Well, following the wars, in 1875, the Federal Government established Mackinac National Park, America’s second national park, established three years after Yellowstone. In 1890, after 115 years of service, the Federal Government decided Fort Mackinac held little value for national defense and transferred ownership of the fort and the national park to the state of Michigan, creating Michigan’s first state park.
Grand Hotel Limo
And it is a grand, Victorian place. In 1887, the palatial Grand Hotel was built on the island, providing a place for the wealthy to stay and play. Constructed of Michigan white pine, it’s front porch is the longest in the world – we could see the thing for miles on our approach. Of course, lowly cruiser’s, such as us, can’t go walking in the front door of the Grand. It is very exclusive and proper attire is required at all times. It is the only place I can think of that still requires you to dress for dinner. No, Dorothy, we’re ain’t in Vegas no more.
Vanessa Walking her Bike up a HUGE Hill
But large colonial hotels and forts aren’t requisite for uniqueness. However, a funny law dating from 1897 outlawing “horseless carriages,” a law that is fully in force today, is the main feature contributing to the quaintness of the island – and the smell. There are no cars anywhere, but plenty of hose manure. On the island, you have three choices for transportation: bikes, horses, or you own two feet. It is also the number one reason for the pace of things here on the island. There is just no reason to hurry for anything; Sort of a cruiser’s ideal destination.
Binga’s First Bike Ride
So, since we are cruisers, we did cruiser things. We rented bikes and toured the island’s less touristy locations – the battlefield, British Landing, inner island trails, Arch Rock, an other locations away from Main Street and the island fudge seekers – did I mention the island’s number one export is Mackinac Island Fudge? Basically, we all had a great time together, walking, riding, looking, and enjoying all the glorious Victorian homes, historic sites, and geological offerings of the island. Binga took her first bike ride. Plus, she got to see all the horsies she could ever want to see – or smell.
Mmmmm, good
Of course, no trip to the island would be complete with out a good meal. Our favorite happens to be Planked Whitefish served at the Village Inn. It is a freshly caught side of Great Lakes white fish, baked on a maple plank with whipped potatoes and fresh vegetables. Add a local wine and it is magnificent! I always love going into a fancy joint sporting three days of unshaven facial growth, disheveled clothes, and smelling like I hadn’t showered for days (which I hadn’t) and stuff my face with fancy food and wine in front of the other island hoity-toities. But that’s just me. I always try to make a good impression. Besides, the showering is optional, as the horse oder more than covers the body odor.
Throw that slob out of here!
But it is enough of the fun and games, enough of the history and grandeur, enough of gorging ourselves with food and wine, as it is still getting cold here and we have many miles to go to get warm. Every night we’ve spent at anchor, we’ve burned our little diesel “fire place” to keep the cabin warm. We dream of tropical places in our sleep.
We upped anchor this morning and began our run down to Port Huron, where we will take our leave of Lake Huron. The new engine makes a huge difference, and we find we rely on it much more than we thought we would. But, what the hell, it helps get us there when the lake winds don’t cooperate. As a result, our range has increased dramatically while reducing the amount of travel time in a day. Today, there were no winds at all (surprise, surprise), so departure was on glass along the rustic islands of the Straits. Perfectly beautiful, enjoyed even more without the rumbling and fumes of our old engine.
We motored a solid seven hours to Roger’s City. Anchorages are scarce on this stretch of the Lake, so we’ve taken a slip for the night. Tomorrow, we’ll continue on toward Alpena, then the thumb area of Michigan, and finally on to Port Huron and the St. Clair River, weather permitting, of course. We are pushing hard, but excited about our next major destination, the Erie Canal. Plus, we are also making up for a lot of lost time. All is excellent aboard. I’m sure, with the heavy traffic on the Detroit River, we’ll have lots to tell next time.
– Steve