June 24, 2004
Holland, MI
Saugatuck is a terrifically quaint little town built in an elbow of the Kalamazoo River. It is a real fun place to visit – not one Wal-Mart or mall or Starbucks. Little privately owned shops, galleries, and eateries line its two streets. The surrounding area is lush and green. It is all very touristy.
After two days, we had enough. Plus, we couldn’t find anything there. We needed the services and resources of Holland, a much bigger city seven miles up the coast. Plus, Saugatuck is EXPENSIVE. Fifty-six dollars a night just to tie up! With no more income, we have to watch our out-go and can’t afford Saugatuck Yacht Service any longer. We had issues to solve and the Holland West Marine would provide us with solutions. So, to Holland we would go.
I rose at 0530 on Saturday (20th) and began the trip up the Kalamazoo River to Lake Michigan. I was suppose to be a quick two hour trip up to Holland. At 0600 we cleared the Saugatuck light and entered Lake Michigan with its North wind and 6 foot chop! We took the wind and waves directly on the nose, as that was the direction we wanted to go, of course. Motoring at 2000 rpms, the knot meter logged us at 6.2 knots, while the GPS showed we were only making 2.8 – 3.2 knots over ground. Obviously the wind and waves were winning.
Only seven miles! Crashing into the waves bounced Vanessa and Binga right out of their berths. With every one up on deck, we were gone three hours and still only half way to Big Red, the lighthouse that marks the Holland channel entrance. Poor Binga, the going was so bad, she turned multiple shades of green before she christened the boat with vomit.
We were only half way. We turned back, making 8.2 – 9.4 knots over ground, maintaining the 6.2 on the knot meter. The wind and waves at our back smoothed everything out. Binga’s color quickly returned. Tying back up at Saugatuck Yacht Service, we decided to bite the bullet and pay for one more night – try again later.
We had plans to meet Steve’s sister and family Sunday night, but we were determined to move. Sunday morning, we slept in, listened closely to weather radio, and set out at 1115. This time, we made it. Winds were out of the west, but not strong enough to fill our new sails (we still have yet to try them). Two and a half hours later, we passed the majestic Big Red lighthouse and entered Holland’s Lake Macatawa, tying up at Eldean Ship Yard. Forty bucks still seemed a bit pricey for us, but an improvement. Eldean’s is beautiful. Nice facilities and really nice boats. We planned on moving up Lake Mac to a cheaper rent district the next day, but for now, we would spend the night with Steve’s parents, meet with family, get some laundry done, and take a proper shower.
Monday, Steve’s parents let us borrow their Jeep while they were out of town. We moved the boat up to a smaller place called Crescent Shores Marina. Nice little place. It is older and doesn’t have all the fancy accouterments of Eldean’s, but the owners work hard at keeping the place clean and really care about their tenants. Plus, with our Boat/US discount, our slip is only twenty-five a night! That is more like it.
After tying up the boat, we grabbed the laptop and headed straight to Panera Bread for food and our Wi-Fi fix. We have been without service since visiting the Apple Store back in Chicago. It is great to check email and update this site.
Over the past week, we have solved some of the problems we were having aboard. The alternator now properly charges the battery, allowing us more freedom and not having to rely so much on shore power.
The radar (which I wired wrong during the Chicago heat wave) is operational, allowing us to travel further in weather like we had on our St. Joe to Saugatuck run. The propane issue is over, allowing us to cook on board again. I had forgotten how good meals are aboard. Last night’s steak, rosemary potatoes, and fancy green beans reminded me.
I am still having issues with the dingy motor. I can’t get it tuned right. Luckily the dingy rows easy enough – I found out the hard way. While zipping around the marina, the motor gave out and I couldn’t get it started again. Rows well.
It is nice enough here that we are planning on staying at Crescent Shores for a couple of more days. We have to return the car, do another load of laundry, and get ready to move again.
We have to keep moving. Our next good long stop will be in Traverse City, MI, 175 nautical miles to the north, where we’ll stop by the Cherry Festival and celebrate Binga’s second birthday. Plus, we’ll probably leave the boat somewhere and do the family thing over the 4th of July weekend, so time for travel is shortening. Until then, we are relaxing and enjoying life aboard. Life is good.
– Steve