Saturday, November 6, 2004
Elizabeth City, NC
Dismal Swamp Canal
The view from our decks is, well, dismal. It is everywhere. The Dismal Swamp, that is. Today, we traveled through the Dismal Swamp Canal from ICW marker 8 to Elizabeth City, NC. Why would we go to such a place if it is so dismal? Well, there are lots of valid reasons. First, the DSC (Dismal Swamp Canal) takes thirty miles off the regular Virginia Beach route, so we save the mileage. Second, all the power boaters hate the DSC because there are speed restrictions, but since we can’t go fast anyway, these restrictions don’t really affect us and we can travel at leisure without speed demons and commercial traffic. Next, there’s the history: this is the oldest operating canal in the United States and has a long and colorful history. Lastly, because the U.S. gave $87 billion of its Federal dollars to Iraq, our country can’t afford a measly, little $400,000 to continue to operate this historic place so, after exactly (I mean to the day) 200 years of operation, the DSC is scheduled to close on January 1, 2005 and this historic resource will cease to exist. But, I’m not here to complain about the Federal Government. I’m here to sail and see what I can, while I have this opportunity. Luckily, we took the time to come this way, as we will be one of the last of the thousands of boats who’ve transited this canal. It is still here and we wanted to see it, so into the Dismal Swamp we go.
As the Lockmaster told us, the Dismal Swamp Canal has a very extensive history. Originally conceived by Colonel William Byrd II of Virginia in 1728 as a way to avoid having to travel directly in “a vast body of dirt and nastiness” of the swamp and coined the name that stands to this day. Later, George Washington and a group of private investors purchased some of the area to exploit it for lumber and commissioned the canal to transport the lumber out of all this dismalness. They got a whole bunch of slaves together, gave them all spoons, and told them to start digging. The lumber business kind of flopped, but the canal, once finished and open in 1805, was a huge success.
There used to be a hotel on the boarder between “Virginie” and “Nawth Cara-liner,” spanning the boarder. If the law from one state was after you, you just opened the door of the other state, waved to the arresting sheriff, and walked free out the other side, nothin’ they could do. Many famous people have come through these parts. Edgar Allen Poe is said to have written my favorite poem, “The Raven,” at this hotel. The hotel burned down years ago, now all that’s left is the sign that says “Welcome to North Carolina” on one side, and “Welcome to Virginia” on the other. The canal had one good battle during the Civil War, where the Union Army was turned back. The swamp was also a haven for escaping slaves trying to get north on the Underground Railroad, with estimates as high as thousands of slaves hiding out in the swamp.
North Carolina Great Dismal Swamp Canal Visitor’s Center
All this historical stuff is completely engrossing, I know, but all we really wanted to do was take a day off our trip, see some different country, visit the Rose Buddies at Elizabeth City, NC, and listen to the fine banjo music and hog sqeelin’ coming out of the swamp. Actually, we never heard any banjo music or hog sqeelin’, and the Rose Buddies didn’t show. What we did get, was the canal all to ourselves.
After locking up through the first lock on the north end of the canal yesterday, our friendly lockmaster recommended we tie up just the other side of the lift bridge, as the local Food Lion grocery store was just across the parking lot. It made for a short day, but it was the most convenient provisioning we’ve ever done. We just pushed the grocery cart out into the parking lot and straight to our boat – just like you do with your car. This time, there was no “homeless” issues to worry about (like in Tonowanda) as our transportation was right there on the edge of the parking lot where we could point to it. We loaded up, stowed our grocery/garbage bags, had dinner, and turned in. This morning, we began our run down the canal proper.
Nereus at the Visitor’s Center dock
Transiting Dismal Canal isn’t a great accomplishment like the Erie Canal, but it is a nice and easy day’s run. We even got to have a break and stop for lunch around noon at North Carolina’s DSC Visitor’s Center. It is a nice place, with a very informative and friendly staff who were honestly interested in our trip and whipped out their “special” guest book for us to sign – the one just for boaters, separate from the public one for those with cars. It was HUGE! Cruisers from around the world have been signing this book for years and years. The staff keep it neatly catalogued by year, so we could go through and see others who we’d known to have come this way before. It is kind of cool, really. We are now a part of a 200 year old history. If you every come through this area by car, stop in and ask to see the special boaters book. Open it from the back and thumb through. We are in there, near the end.
“Dyed” Waters of the Dismal Swamp
After giving Binga some “hard-time” and eating lunch, we loaded back on the boat and continued on our way. Again, for the rest of the canal, there was nothing but trees and the funny, tannic-dyed water. The tannins from all the trees around here leech into the water and turn it dark brown. It is like driving through coffee. Kind of enticing, to dive in to a big river full of Starbuck’s, but I maintained my will power and just motored along. Turns our the water is actually very pure despite the color. The tannins kill bacteria and keep the water amazingly clean. They say it is even good for you. I’ll pass; I don’t like cold coffee.
Blurred Photo of Steel Human Target
At the second lock, we locked down out of the canal and into the Patuxent River, where we meandered down to our evening’s destination. We took in the sights of the North Carolina and the Patuxent – trees already leafless, brown water, life-size-human-shaped shooting targets with bullet holes . . . Wait . . . What? Yeah, here in the swamp, the local past time seems to be target practice at the human form. We passed this steel cut-out of a person – riddled with bullet holes. I thought it was funny and started to take a photo, as Vanessa slammed down the throttle to get us the hell out o’ there, making me lose my balance and ruining my picture. I didn’t get another chance.
Dismal Swamp Banjo Association
She pushed the boat hard, getting us down river and out of the swamp as soon as possible, quickly passing countless other targets and photo opportunities. It is kind of a different place, but I’m sure the people there are just as friendly and welcoming as anywhere else. We just decided not to try to find out. We would pass groups of locals on their boats, hunkered down at the shoreline. When we came by, they would stop whatever they were doing and stare straight at us. I, of course always the ambassador for the cruising sailor, give a big smile and a hardy wave. I’d get nothing in return. I guess, to them, I’m just a side of bacon. I never did get to hear any banjo music I’d always heard about.
Elizabeth City Welcomes Us
As dusk loomed, we pulled up to the Elizabeth City Town Dock – home to the Rose Buddies. Elizabeth City really knows how to cater to the cruising sailor – free dockage and alcohol! We tied up and the infamous Elizabeth City Wine and Cheese Soirée was already underway. When there are four or more boats, the town hosts a wine and cheese party for their guests. Very nice. They are also the home to the Rose Buddies, a group of volunteers who welcome the ladies on every boat with a fresh rose. We go there late, so most of the cheese and all the wine was already gone. The Rose Buddies were nowhere to be found and their rose garden looked a little sparse, so Vanessa and Binga went rose-free. But the dockage was complimentary, which is all that really matters. Elizabeth City looked like a nice town. Too bad the weather window is closing, or we would stay longer to have a look around. But, the weather is the weather and it is still cold, so it is time to go. Tomorrow, we’ll head on out, continuing along the ICW towards warmer water.
-Steve